For some time the Japanese whisky market was almost entirely domestic, as it was widely believed that whisky made in the Scotch style, but not produced in Scotland, could not possibly measure up to the level of quality attained by the traditional Scotch distilleries.
However, Japanese whiskies have received a great deal of attention in recent years, particularly within Europe. Recognition came after a number of blind tastings were organised by Norwich-based Whisky Magazine, whereby Japanese single malts sat alongside malts from distilleries considered among the best in Scotland. On more than one occasion, the outcome showed Japanese single malts, particularly those of Yoichi and Yamazaki, scoring higher than their Scotch counterparts.
Marcin Miller, founder of Whisky Magazine and director of Norwich-based Number One Drinks Company, is one of Europe's leading importers of fine and rare Japanese whiskey. Japan, he believes, produces some of the best whisky in the world: "Although Japanese whisky started pretty much as a homage to Scotch whisky, it is only in the last five years that it has started to create its own identity," he explains. "What it comes down to, in my opinion, is that the Japanese have a remarkable discipline and passion for detail. I think it is probably the complexity and finesse that sets them apart from Scottish, American and Irish whiskies; to get those two things working together is very interesting."
Miller, who initially visited Japan over ten years ago, continues: "At first I thought Japanese whisky had to be some sort of a joke; it doesn't make any sense, like having Polish champagne. But within two hours of touching down in Tokyo, I completely fell headover-heels in love. "I think to understand any drink properly you have to see where it is made. That gives it its context in terms of what people are trying to achieve," he adds.
The most significant turning point, according to Miller, was last year when Japanese whiskies won both Best Malt and Best Blended whisky in the 2008 World Whiskies Awards. "These awards are the two big ones; it's kind of like the Academy Awards' Best Picture," he says. "I was on the tasting panel; there were 52 of us from all around the world, including whisky makers from Scotland, distributors, distillers and retailers. People came up to me afterwards saying by far the best category was the Japanese whiskies." It is perhaps unsurprising then, that a Yoichi malt won Whisky Magazine's Best of the Best even back in 2001. Suntory and Nikka, Japan's leading whisky companies, run approximately 85 percent of Japanese whisky production, stocking standard products such as a Yamazaki 10-year-old or a Yoichi 10-year-old.
However, Miller is keen to outline that he strives to "represent the smaller guys and bring really special things to the market." Towards the end of 2008, Number One Drinks Company released Karuizawa 1971, the oldest single cask ever released outside of Japan, nearly selling out only weeks after its release. The company also imports Hanyu Card Series' whiskies, from highly respected distiller Ichiro Akuto. They are only available in very small quantities, making each bottle much sought-after and highly collectable.
Miller elaborates: "We are the sole distributor, outside of Japan, of the Hanyu distillery, which was closed and dismantled in 2000. We are literally down to the last couple of hundred casks now. We are also thesole distributor of Karuizawa single casks and Chichibu, which is the newest distillery in the world, built in November 2007. "So it is all extremely rare, adding to that mystique of when it's gone, it's gone. People think whisky is whisky, but it's not," he adds.
ICHIRO'S MAL T CARD SERIES, ACE OF DIAMONDS 1986, 56.4% ABV (Cask No. 9023 - bottled in 2008 & finished in a cream sherry butt)
NOSE: Loads of dried Seville orange peel, furniture polish, rose, pipe tobacco and with a dash of water, sloe and Moscatel.
PALATE: A hit of anise on the tongue, rye-like spice attack which smooths into bourbon biscuits.
KARUIZAWA SINGLE CASK 1971, 64.1% ABV (Cask No. 6878 - bottled in 2007)
NOSE: Resinous. Myrrh. Beeswax polish and a touch of incense. Becomes fragrant and oily with tea and leather. Profound and strange with an almost bloodly edge to it. Evolved, mature, complex.
PALATE: The resinous quality continues with smoke, black walnut, long pepper, Bolivar cigar. Needs water and benefits from it. Old, with a firm grip.
FINISH: Long, exotic and strange.
COMMENT: Should only be consumed in small amounts by consenting adults. Highest recommendation.
NO. 1 NOH SERIES KARUIZAWA 1995, 63.0% ABV(Cask No. 5004 - bottled in 2008)
NOSE: Resinous. Varnish, balsam/tiger balm, geranium, shoe polish, prune, heavily oiled woods. Rosewood casket. Lots of wood. Mint chocolate with water.
PALATE: Light astringency when neat, wood oils, teetering into bitterness. With a drop of water, there's eucalyptus. Fragrance just stops it becoming too grippy.
FINISH : Tight and exotic.
REVIEWS BY DAVE BROOM
However, Japanese whiskies have received a great deal of attention in recent years, particularly within Europe. Recognition came after a number of blind tastings were organised by Norwich-based Whisky Magazine, whereby Japanese single malts sat alongside malts from distilleries considered among the best in Scotland. On more than one occasion, the outcome showed Japanese single malts, particularly those of Yoichi and Yamazaki, scoring higher than their Scotch counterparts.
Marcin Miller, founder of Whisky Magazine and director of Norwich-based Number One Drinks Company, is one of Europe's leading importers of fine and rare Japanese whiskey. Japan, he believes, produces some of the best whisky in the world: "Although Japanese whisky started pretty much as a homage to Scotch whisky, it is only in the last five years that it has started to create its own identity," he explains. "What it comes down to, in my opinion, is that the Japanese have a remarkable discipline and passion for detail. I think it is probably the complexity and finesse that sets them apart from Scottish, American and Irish whiskies; to get those two things working together is very interesting."
Miller, who initially visited Japan over ten years ago, continues: "At first I thought Japanese whisky had to be some sort of a joke; it doesn't make any sense, like having Polish champagne. But within two hours of touching down in Tokyo, I completely fell headover-heels in love. "I think to understand any drink properly you have to see where it is made. That gives it its context in terms of what people are trying to achieve," he adds.
The most significant turning point, according to Miller, was last year when Japanese whiskies won both Best Malt and Best Blended whisky in the 2008 World Whiskies Awards. "These awards are the two big ones; it's kind of like the Academy Awards' Best Picture," he says. "I was on the tasting panel; there were 52 of us from all around the world, including whisky makers from Scotland, distributors, distillers and retailers. People came up to me afterwards saying by far the best category was the Japanese whiskies." It is perhaps unsurprising then, that a Yoichi malt won Whisky Magazine's Best of the Best even back in 2001. Suntory and Nikka, Japan's leading whisky companies, run approximately 85 percent of Japanese whisky production, stocking standard products such as a Yamazaki 10-year-old or a Yoichi 10-year-old.
However, Miller is keen to outline that he strives to "represent the smaller guys and bring really special things to the market." Towards the end of 2008, Number One Drinks Company released Karuizawa 1971, the oldest single cask ever released outside of Japan, nearly selling out only weeks after its release. The company also imports Hanyu Card Series' whiskies, from highly respected distiller Ichiro Akuto. They are only available in very small quantities, making each bottle much sought-after and highly collectable.
Miller elaborates: "We are the sole distributor, outside of Japan, of the Hanyu distillery, which was closed and dismantled in 2000. We are literally down to the last couple of hundred casks now. We are also thesole distributor of Karuizawa single casks and Chichibu, which is the newest distillery in the world, built in November 2007. "So it is all extremely rare, adding to that mystique of when it's gone, it's gone. People think whisky is whisky, but it's not," he adds.
ICHIRO'S MAL T CARD SERIES, ACE OF DIAMONDS 1986, 56.4% ABV (Cask No. 9023 - bottled in 2008 & finished in a cream sherry butt)
NOSE: Loads of dried Seville orange peel, furniture polish, rose, pipe tobacco and with a dash of water, sloe and Moscatel.
PALATE: A hit of anise on the tongue, rye-like spice attack which smooths into bourbon biscuits.
KARUIZAWA SINGLE CASK 1971, 64.1% ABV (Cask No. 6878 - bottled in 2007)
NOSE: Resinous. Myrrh. Beeswax polish and a touch of incense. Becomes fragrant and oily with tea and leather. Profound and strange with an almost bloodly edge to it. Evolved, mature, complex.
PALATE: The resinous quality continues with smoke, black walnut, long pepper, Bolivar cigar. Needs water and benefits from it. Old, with a firm grip.
FINISH: Long, exotic and strange.
COMMENT: Should only be consumed in small amounts by consenting adults. Highest recommendation.
NO. 1 NOH SERIES KARUIZAWA 1995, 63.0% ABV(Cask No. 5004 - bottled in 2008)
NOSE: Resinous. Varnish, balsam/tiger balm, geranium, shoe polish, prune, heavily oiled woods. Rosewood casket. Lots of wood. Mint chocolate with water.
PALATE: Light astringency when neat, wood oils, teetering into bitterness. With a drop of water, there's eucalyptus. Fragrance just stops it becoming too grippy.
FINISH : Tight and exotic.
REVIEWS BY DAVE BROOM
